Have just arrived back from the Santa Cruz Trek - four days in the Cordillera Blanca. Unfortunately the weather was rather mixed, so only sometimes views of the spectacular peaks and glaciers. Rain every day and night. I had forgotten how exhausting the altitude was - at the pass Punta Union at 4750m I felt and walked like a sloth... And I almost looked like one (see picture). From the pass I could see four condors circling up into the sky. Very long nights and quite cold - 13 hours, around 5 °C. Have seen humming birds at 4100m altitude, though.
Already the taxi ride from Caraz to Cachapampa, the starting point of the walk, is an adventure. Normally a taxi takes six passengers, ours took seven - not counting the four kids of various age and all the luggage. Then a walk of about four hours to the first camp at about 3700m, nothing special, drizzle set in just when I was finished with dinner.
Spent the second night at Alpamayo Basecamp at 4300m, almost without any views of the mountains. Only after I had already left the valley again early the next morning the skies cleared up a little.
The third night in a secluded valley, Quebrada Paría at 4000m, after crossing the pass. I was completely on my own with the great panoramic view of a massive snow and ice wall around the end of the valley. At least the peaks were visible for a while in the evening... The best day. Heavy rain during the night had me prepare for the worst inside the tent, but only a few little puddles in one corner of the tent.
Today the longish but mainly flat walk out to Vaquería through some picturesque high-altitude settlements. Pigs, sheep, goats, llamas, chicken, and dirty kids - have been asked "¿Hay caramelo?" dozens of times...
The ride in a ramshackle Toyota minivan back from Vaquería to Yungay was great. From about 3800m up to a pass at about 4800m on a very rocky dirt track! Surprising the engine did not stall in the altitude. And then on the other side more than 1000m almost vertically down again into the valley. Hours of switchbacks wiggling like intestines. Many crosses at the roadside to commemorate tragic losses. Incredible views on many five and six thousand meter peaks and massive glaciers on all sides of the road - where not covered in clouds. The following 1000m on somewhat less dramatic switchbacks down into the main valley through villages and small paddies were very beautiful, too. About three hours for the 50 kilometers.
Will post a few pictures, but not now. I am too hungry! And Huaraz with some fab food is waiting for me.
